GrokSurf's San Diego

One more day to savor the sun and waves before the first work-week of the year arrives. Big Rock is my favorite San Diego break for lefts. Waves here come out of deep water quickly on to a shallow (sharp!) reef and then break along a rock shelf which makes for hollow tubes and catapults from the backwash. The transition from deep water to reef is so abrupt that the takeoff zone is narrow and tricky. If the wave doesn’t look like it’s about to break on you, you’re probably too far out to catch it. I really liked this Jeff Alexander 6’1″ board that belonged to a local resident named Rand:

So, here are the waves: